I wasn't very interested in doing a patch similar to the one I'd done for the gunwale. For one thing, the bow is extremely curved, and I'm uncertain about how easily I could manipulate a small sliver to follow the contour. So, instead, I trimmed back the broken lining and an adjacent one, and swooped up another piece of lining to intersect and reach the bow. I'll mirror on the other side, then work up and down from there. (Chances are I'll create another lower "master" line about halfway from the current low point and the keel, just to help keep things looking symmetric.)
Saturday, January 4, 2014
Lining the hull, part 2
I wasn't very interested in doing a patch similar to the one I'd done for the gunwale. For one thing, the bow is extremely curved, and I'm uncertain about how easily I could manipulate a small sliver to follow the contour. So, instead, I trimmed back the broken lining and an adjacent one, and swooped up another piece of lining to intersect and reach the bow. I'll mirror on the other side, then work up and down from there. (Chances are I'll create another lower "master" line about halfway from the current low point and the keel, just to help keep things looking symmetric.)
Tuesday, December 24, 2013
Lining the hull, part 1
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| The first few hull liners (dark wood, below the gunwales) are on. |
Still, they whole thing will be a bit touchy. While the underlying planks' outer faces don't completely touch (rather, they abut on their inner faces, where they touch the interior frames), the outer lining needs to be contiguous, spanning the gaps between the planks' outer faces and connecting smoothly with each other. Fortunately, the renin is pretty flexible -- but, "sealing up" every gap and ensuring smooth connections will require some significant spot work with the glue plus, I expect, some small custom-trimmed shims and patches near areas of extreme curvature.
I cracked open a new container of glue for all this, and I'm annoyed that it doesn't have the near-instantaneous adhesion I got from my first bottle. It's also a bit messy, a result from me cutting open the nose slightly, but sufficiently, too low. I'll probably go looking for a more adroit, faster-acting cyanoacrylate glue before continuing work.
In the meantime: Merry Christmas!
Sunday, December 15, 2013
Lining the gunwales, part 2
That went pretty well. I used a tiny drill near each of the four corners of each gunport, and used those as reference to generally cut out the port. Used my trusty file to clean the edges. Cutting along the tops of the gunwales went pretty smoothly, too. The thick gunwales and the inner and outer linings are all pretty consistently ending at the same point. There are a few pieces where the lining on one side or the other dips too low by fractions of millimeters, but it's not enough to be perceptible unless you're up close and looking. And, ultimately, the rubbing strakes (think "bumpers" on a speedboat) will cap the gunwales, making the slight excess nicks even harder to catch.
There was one small mishap, where the knife didn't cut but rather levered out a piece of the outer lining. Fortunately, I remembered my first aid: cleaned out the wound, cut a patch, and applied. I haven't yet glued it in, but the pictures are below.
I also trimmed some of the lining from the bottom of the stern panel; the stern lining ends at the same level as the gunwales. This way, the darker hull lining will all terminate at the same height. It's a small enough adjustment that it's kind of a moot point: a rubbing strake will cover this interface. Still, though, it's good to know they'll look clean underneath, too.
There was one small mishap, where the knife didn't cut but rather levered out a piece of the outer lining. Fortunately, I remembered my first aid: cleaned out the wound, cut a patch, and applied. I haven't yet glued it in, but the pictures are below.
I also trimmed some of the lining from the bottom of the stern panel; the stern lining ends at the same level as the gunwales. This way, the darker hull lining will all terminate at the same height. It's a small enough adjustment that it's kind of a moot point: a rubbing strake will cover this interface. Still, though, it's good to know they'll look clean underneath, too.
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| Injured |
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| Cleaned |
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| Patched. Before gluing, I'll file it down a bit more and will try to better meld the bottom left of the patch with the broader lining. |
Saturday, December 14, 2013
Lining the gunwales, part 1
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| Close up: the exterior lining must be trimmed down to follow the contours and details of the gunwales. |
Today, though, I hit step 33 of the directions sheet: line the gunwales. This got off to a delayed start when I realized I had dried glue thoroughly stopping up the nozzle and no spares. Plan B: use a toothpick. This worked pretty well, especially when the toothpick was used as a slender roller to completely but thinly coat a small piece (look at the tiny sliver at top left in the picture below for an example).
The gunwales are all completely lined, but the lining needs to be trimmed down to fit their contours. Additionally, I need to cut out the gunports. Cutting the gunports was delicate but not difficult when I did the interior lining, but this will take a few adjustments. I'm kicking myself a bit, really: although I remembered to do it for the interior lining, I completely forgot today to put a bit of glue on both sides of each gunport to make the subsequent cutting easier. Good thing I have plenty of toothpicks.
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| On the near side: a bunch of lining, prettying up the exterior look. On the far side, the contours to which both sides must be trimmed. |
Saturday, December 7, 2013
Déjà vu
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| Step one: glue the lining, and hope that it's all straight up and down. |
With the hull planking and most of the filing done, it's time to return to planking, this time the exterior faces. The first stop is the stern, the interior face of which I lined two months ago. The next step will be the bulwarks. Unlike when I lined the interior, the bulwarks now are in their fixed, curved position; we'll see how much extra bending and twisting goes into getting them to lay straight. This will also be good practice for lining the more complicated contours of the lower hull.
I am going to return to smoothing out the hull. The metal file did a handy job getting rid of the pinheads and smoothing a few things. However, it's a big metal stick; it stank at getting into some of the concave curves. Will go in for a sanding, line the gunwales, and then get to work lining the hull.
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| Step two: trim and sand down. That little nibs/bumps at the top-left and -right will be sanded/trimmed more thoroughly once some dark flashing gets set down on that top edge. |
Sunday, December 1, 2013
Planked!
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| According to my wife: "Now it can float." (Previously: "It looks like a shipwreck.") |
Albatros right now is not without its kinks: as you can see at right, there are a few oddball perturbations in the hull. They'll be filed down (possibly as soon as I post this). You can see on the right, too, some signs of where a few of the planks had to be trimmed down to gel with the others. This was a lot smoother and easier than I expected. There are a handful of outrageous planks to fit oddball gabs toward the stern. But, they work! I realize, belatedly, that another anxiety I had about planking the hull was just running out of planks and nails. That, fortunately, didn't come remotely true: there are 15 full-length planks and dozens of nails that are just surplus now.
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| Busted nails from just one night's worth of planking |
Monday, November 4, 2013
Planking persists, gets a bit more complicated
Planking the frames continues. I've fully taken the plunge and hope to have the hull frame planked by the end of the weekend: after all, I need to keep myself busy while my wife is out of town.
As you can see from the photo, the pieces toward the bow at times are getting carved narrower. There is more surface area amidships than at either the bow or the stern; to accommodate this, the planks sometimes narrow or won't even reach the bow and/or stern at all.
One challenge is to ensure that the planks that get cut short nevertheless terminate close to a frame. Take a gander at the second plank down in the picture at right -- it's the one that doesn't entirely extend to the bow. What you can't see in the picture is that, being so close to the bow, there's pretty serious hull curvature forward of where the last pin is. To deal with this, I applied a pretty generous serving of glue to keep that tapered end in place. Still wet from its pliance-restoring soak, the plank quickly adhered firmly. From there, I worked backward to secure the other pins. I need to be mindful of providing that last physical anchor -- the pin -- as close as possible to each plank's ends.
As you can see from the photo, the pieces toward the bow at times are getting carved narrower. There is more surface area amidships than at either the bow or the stern; to accommodate this, the planks sometimes narrow or won't even reach the bow and/or stern at all.
One challenge is to ensure that the planks that get cut short nevertheless terminate close to a frame. Take a gander at the second plank down in the picture at right -- it's the one that doesn't entirely extend to the bow. What you can't see in the picture is that, being so close to the bow, there's pretty serious hull curvature forward of where the last pin is. To deal with this, I applied a pretty generous serving of glue to keep that tapered end in place. Still wet from its pliance-restoring soak, the plank quickly adhered firmly. From there, I worked backward to secure the other pins. I need to be mindful of providing that last physical anchor -- the pin -- as close as possible to each plank's ends.
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